"The streets of London have their map, but our passions are uncharted. What are you going to meet if you turn this corner?" - Virginia Woolf
Even the most apathetic of readers will be charmed by the rich literary history of the City of London. It’s impossible to turn a corner without coming nose-to-plaque showing you a writer’s birthplace, or a pub the Greats got pissed in before penning a classic. The city is a treasure trove of the past, both literary and general (the spot where Anne Boleyn met her untimely end is just off the District or Circle lines) and with a little help from one of our favorite London-based writers, Genevieve Wheeler, we’ve dug up our Lit Girl-approved spots to help guide some of your wandering.
Downloadable PDF available HERE and Add our spots to your Apple maps HERE.
“When I’m a single woman in London I will be extremely elegant and slim and wear black dresses and drink martinis and will only meet men at book launches and at exhibition openings.” - Dolly Alderton
We know you left room in that Rimowa for some books.
Where better to start your browsing than at Hatchards (A), the oldest bookshop in the United Kingdom? Open since 1797, Hatchards now is stocked with the likes of Coco Mellors and Bolu Babalola. If you don’t find what you’re looking for there, however, you’re in luck - Waterstones Piccadilly is just a stone’s throw away and the largest bookstore in Europe (eight miles of stacks). Sandwiched between the two is Maison Assouline (B) and its Swans Bar, where you can enjoy a cocktail inspired by some of the most beautiful travel coffee table books out there (you’ll need a reservation!). After a few drinks, you might be inclined to purchase and lug around a hulking coffee table book – if you have room in your luggage (cough cough, leave room in your luggage).
If you’re tuned into the literary sphere in London already, you’ll no doubt be familiar with Daunt Books (C). There are multiple shops, but the domed ceiling location you’ve seen all over your Instagram is in Marylebone. You can round out that aesthetically pleasing bookstore photo dump with Word on the Water - a floating bookshop behind King’s Cross Station.
You could spend an entire day browsing the bookstores of Notting Hill, but if you’ve worked up an appetite start with Books for Cooks (D), a bookshop that cooks and serves up recipes from the books they house. Then you can pop into shops like The Notting Hill Book Exchange or give it a go at living out your Anna Scott / William Thacker fantasy at The Notting Hill Bookshop (E).
When you find that you are encroaching on “must sit on bag to close it” territory, stop by a couple museums and libraries to satiate the need to look at books - no risk of taking one home. You could start at the National Art Library (F). Located in the Victoria and Albert museum (hey, Red, White, and Royal Blue stans), the NAL holds the UK’s most comprehensive collection of both books as art and books about art that you can browse and enjoy in the reading rooms. Or, pratiquez votre français at the La Médiathèque. Just inside The Institut Francais, La Médiathèque is one of the largest free access French libraries in the UK, and in our opinion, one of the most beautiful.
Finally, on the edge of Hampstead Heath and surrounded by tranquil landscaped gardens, Kenwood House (G) is home to Georgian architecture and world-class art collections, including Rembrandt’s ‘Self-Portrait with Two Circles.’ The star attraction, however, is the Great Library, which was returned to its original colour scheme as part of a major refurbishment completed in 2013.
“…and she never told anyone in Ireland that London was exciting. She never told them that she liked the crowds, the way they surged around and made so many things seem possible. Even if nothing ever actually happened, it never stopped feeling likely, inevitable, that your life was about to change, if you turned a street corner, struck up a conversation, got off the Tube a few stops early to see what the buildings looked like in Willesden Green or Clapham Common.” - Oisín McKenna
Looking to live between the pages of a favorite read? Or longing to step back in time to when that book you pretended to read in ninth-grade English was written (because you appreciate it now, of course)?
Walk in Mrs. Dalloway’s footsteps through St. James Park before stopping to treat yourself to a hopefully less tumultuous tea than the usual suspects of the Magnolia Parks series had (IYKYK) at the Mandarin Oriental (A) (and we’re anxiously awaiting the reopening of celeb hot spot and Magnolia’s favorite Chiltern Firehouse – the 48-hour chicken is what dreams are made of).
Or have a G&T tinny (or two) at Hampstead Heath (B) before taking a dip in one of the swimming ponds. Featured in Zadie Smith’s NW and the subject of At the Pond: Swimming at the Hampstead Ladies' Pond, the ponds provide a small escape from the hustle and bustle of the major city surrounding them. No phones are allowed, so bring a nice paperback and enjoy some time off the grid.
If you’ve had a solid amount to drink, maybe you want to try riding the train out of King’s Cross (C) and writing a couple unreliable narratives like Rachel in The Girl on the Train? (Kidding, of course). Or, hear us out, bring a marmalade sando down to sit with Britain’s favorite bear, Paddington, at his namesake station instead (D). (Bet our Latino king has some opinions on that new Bad Bunny album.)
Then make your way over to the Bloomsbury Neighborhood, where you can stare thoughtfully at some of the many blue plaques marking the haunts of some of the literary greats. Tired of strolling after that St. James walk though? You could stop to watch them hand-bind books at Shepherds. Browse their impeccable selection of papers or even sign up for a course on how to bind that fanfiction you have queued up for the flight home.
Maybe all this walking has you longing to lie decadently across a chaise lounge – if you’re feeling particularly immersive you’ll want to look at the room availability at Henry’s Townhouse (E) when booking your trip. Inspired by the rooms of Henry Austen (yes, that Austen family), Henry’s Townhouse offers a little step back in time and some excellent Instagram story content backdrops (RIP Daphne Bridgerton, you would have loved thirst traps here).
“Hampstead Heath! Glory of London! Where Keats walked and Jarman fucked, where Orwell exercised his weakened lungs and Constable never failed to find something holy.” - Zadie Smith
Traveling with the less literarily inclined? Don’t worry, we’ve got you covered.
If all the literary sight-seeing has inspired you to put pen to paper, stop by Choosing Keeping (A) to replenish that stash of journals and stationary you have at home. Named for the owners’ desire for their customers to be considerate and discerning in their choices? Obviously gets the Lit Girl bottlecap of approval. And if you’re interested in documenting your trip across the pond further, visit the vintage film photobooth nestled in the Cinema at Selfridges – a perfect souvenir that doubles as a bookmark.
Speaking of film, Electric Cinema (B) in Portobello is the perfect escape for a quiet afternoon, where you can enjoy both classics and newly released films from the comfort of plush velvet sofa beds.
Need something that isn’t a Nandos stop before the film? The Thomas Cubbitt Pub in Belgravia is just the spot for a glass of Australian white and popovers you will dream about long after your roast is finished. Unless you want something a little out of the way and out of the ordinary - for that you’ll want to have dinner at Supper Club, a unique restaurant that lets you dine on the tube.
As for where we’re shopping, it’s the shops that dually serve as galleries for their craftsmanship. We love Connolly (C), a British saddler whose leather can be found on the Queen’s coronation coach. Today, their shop includes leather bags, clothing, and home design. Or Alex Eagle, where alongside furniture and fashion are monthly reading lists curated by the studio. Then, a stop at Margaret Howell (E) for a crisp white oxford made by the Brits themselves (and to peruse the current films and exhibitions on view). For fragrance, it’s Perfumer H (D), where classically trained British perfumer Lyn Harris bottles her eponymous label, and a space that offers an insight into her unique craft and olfactory journey.
“Aptly, London itself looked like a film set that evening. It had rained earlier in the day - because what else would London do on an April afternoon?” - Genevieve Wheeler
But surely you’ll want to speak with some locals. Tapping in Adelaide author Genevieve Wheeler to give you some of her favorite London haunts. (Lit Girl approved of course, so you’re in good hands.)
If you're a read-at-the-bar-with-a-delectable-cocktail kind of Lit Girl, I'd recommend ordering a Champagne Piña Colada (or several) at Coupette (A) in Bethnal Green (if you happen to be in East London), or at its sister location, Atelier Coupette, in Soho. A friend introduced me to this dreamy, creamy concoction — made with Moët and topped with fresh coconut flakes — last year, and it's quickly become one of my favourite cocktails in all of London.
Growing up, I lived in the suburbs of London for a little while, and on a few special occasions, my mom took my sisters and me into the city to go to Fortnum & Mason (B). We rarely (if ever?) had proper afternoon tea upstairs (which now runs about £82+ a person); instead, we'd browse the department store's many floors and stop for something sweet at The Parlour (B). It's busy and bustling — particularly on weekends and during the festive season, so be warned — but I still delight in having a wander and snagging a 'lil treat here.
Oh, and if you're looking for a spot to grab afternoon tea, I'd recommend The Wolseley (C), a few doors down from Fortnum & Mason. It's still swanky and grandiose, but far less expensive!
London is full of lovely parks and gardens and green spaces, but my absolute favorite is Victoria Tower Gardens (D). Nestled along the north bank of the River Thames, just next to the Houses of Parliament, this stretch of grass offers a perfect escape from the madness of central London. It has plenty of park benches facing the river, all begging you to sit down with a coffee (or a tinned G&T) and a good paperback, as well as a plush lawn speckled with picnic blankets and sunbathers on sunny days.
During the spring and summer of 2020, I spent many weekends in these gardens — sometimes with my flatmates, sometimes solo — reading and re-reading books like Heartburn and From The Mixed-Up Files of Mrs. Basil E. Frankweiler (and later writing my own novel, Adelaide). I also took my now-fiancé there on our very first date in 2021. Needless to say, it has a special place in my heart.
Downlaod the PDF guide HERE and add our spots to your Apple maps HERE.